We breezed into Seville aboard the luxurious train from Jerez, and emerged into a chilly spring morning. Immediately (and unusually for a transit station) we were surrounded by gorgeous stone buildings and rows of orange trees.

Seville was just waking up as we entered the main square to a clattering of hooves on cobblestones. The city’s historic centre is largely pedestrianised and very walkable, but there’s no shortage of fine horses and fancy carriages should the mood take you!

The spectacular central cathedral, La Giralda, is the largest Gothic building in the world, with airy Moorish gardens. Christopher Columbus has his tomb here, and the long climb up the bell tower is well worth the spectacular 360’ views. From La Giralda, we spied the bullring, and determined to visit it after a little brunch in the Barrio (historic Jewish quarter).

Seville is packed with sherry-soaked bodegas, perfect for tapas and a tasting. The Barrio is a labyrinth of cobbled streets, shady squares lined with yet more orange trees, tiny museums and cosy bodegas. We found a noisy little place with sawdust on the floor, bursting at the seams at 11am.

Queasily digesting octopus and sherry (not a winning combination, for future reference), we strolled out of the centre towards the bullring, stopping briefly to buy a new pair of fabulous red flamenco shoes for my budding dance career!

Built in 1758, Seville's bullring is one of the oldest and most celebrated in Spain. Apparently, though its capacity is a small 12,000, it draws the nation’s top bullfighters. The only way to look around was a short guided tour, because there was no event that day.

Our tour in a hash of English, Spanish and German included such bullfighters’ essentials as the chapel and the hospital. The tiny museum housed the even tinier costumes of famous historic matadors, plus the ghoulish heads of their best known nemeses. A great deal of respect is conferred on the winning bulls, and most of the ‘greats’ in the museum had been allowed to die of old age, having proved themselves in the ring.

Our day trip to Seville was a delight, and we sorely regretted not allowing an overnight stay to enjoy the nightlife too. It’s a lively, beautiful and atmospheric city for a weekend break – just go easy on the octopus and sherry.