The capital of Tibet, Lhasa is a melting pot of old and new, Tibetan and Chinese, religious and secular. Due to the strict rules of the Chinese government, the only way you can get into the region is on an organised tour. Having travelled with 30 others all the way from Kathmandu, my friend Samm and I decided it was time to experience some of “the real Tibet” with a walk through the old city.

We started by going through the locals’ market, looking at everything from hand-knitted clothes, chopsticks and bowls decorated with dragons to massive patties of butter and yak meat with the fur still attached. We chose Chinese sweets from the immense selection in the covered markets, and went for tea at the Turquoise Dragon Tea House. Except we didn't get any tea - the waitress just stared (perhaps in surprise, as we were the only obvious tourists) and then ignored us. Unlike the people next to us, who were drinking despite the early hour, and became obsessed with Samm’s rings, and trying to persuade her to swap them with their own – sometimes the most bizarre experiences are the best.

After our unsuccessful tea quest, we stumbled across a monastery and decided to go in. It was deserted, with just one monk in the prayer hall. He was singing so beautifully it made me feel quite emotional. Yak butter candles were burning, casting a gorgeous light across everything and adding to the serene atmosphere. A jovial monk showed us round, and explained the meaning of different statues and paintings, before insisting we take photos with him – not that we minded. We visited nuns at the nunnery, got lost in the Muslim quarter and watched noodles being made at the noodle factory. We ate momos (Tibetan dumplings) with the locals, who were as interested in us as we were in them, looking at our clothes and chuckling at our strange behaviour.

Being in the old Tibetan quarter was a far cry from the more obvious tourist areas, despite being only a stone’s throw away. I’d urge anyone visiting this area to take a few steps into the old town for a different – and arguably more authentic - experience.