“It just tastes like muddy water”, I thought to myself as I downed the ominous looking liquid in my cone shaped wooden bowl. My boyfriend and I were participating in a ‘Kava ceremony’ in Fiji, where we were hopping around the Yasawa Islands for ten days. When the Chief of the Fijian tribe said “high tide”, we had to clap once, down the liquid, then clap three times with much aplomb. This was all accompanied by traditional music and the sound of good natured laughter from guests and locals alike.

Kava is ground up roots of a pepper plant, and is an entrenched part of traditional Fijian life for social and political reasons. The powder is placed in a bag and steeped in a huge bowl, a bit like brewing tea. It has been described as, “mild and euphoric”, “the alternative to Prozac” and “nature’s answer to reducing stress, anxiety and insomnia”. It’s said to have lots of medicinal properties – and to allow users to communicate with the supernatural – and is banned in the UK (for similar reasons to cannabis). I felt my mouth gradually growing numb as the kava kept on flowing…and I certainly felt very relaxed. This local beverage might also help explain the concept of ‘Fiji time’ and the fact that nothing gets done before midday!

A few days earlier, we had boarded the bright yellow Yasawa Flyer from Fiji’s main island Viti Levu, and sailed past tiny beautiful islands – including the infamous party-pumping Beachcomber – before changing to a smaller boat to take us to Oarsman’s Bay on Nacula. We were greeted by a group of Fijians singing a Bula welcome song, standing by two archways decorated with flowers. We were staying in a bure (little traditional hut) on the beach – it was gorgeous, a great place for romancing, chilling out and socialising.

We spent our time walking and looking at hermit crabs on the beach, chatting with the locals, drinking from coconuts, diving, snorkelling and swimming in the sea and in caves nearby. It was a very social environment – everyone eats together at big tables, and we got to sample traditional Lovo feast. This involves digging a hole in the ground, lighting a fire, putting stones on top of it and waiting for stones to heat up, then placing the food on the stones. Finally, this is covered and buried until it’s cooked – giving a flavour that tastes like a cross between barbecued and smoked food. At night, the party gets going, with dancing, music and games (I was lucky enough to win free activities due to my fantastic performance in musical chairs!). The Fijians are a friendly bunch – almost too much so! They’re renowned for their kindness and love talking to those of us from ‘the motherland’ (the UK).

If you’re on a world trip and in these parts, I’d definitely recommend a visit to Fiji, particularly the Yasawas – and more particularly Oarsman’s Bay. The beach here is meant to be the most beautiful in the Yasawas, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. When our booking was messed up at another island later on our trip, we went back to Oarsman’s – it says a lot when you want to return somewhere so much that you do! On our return, we received a heroes’ welcome. You can’t ask for more than that.