Bethlehem Ghetto

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Asa's experience was in Bethlehem, Palestinian Territory. He went on 24 of November 2005 for 1 day. He went for tourism, culture, interest or hobby. Asa went with a group of friends. He got there and around by walking, bus or coach. asa's verdict is: you must go here.

One of the Wall's sniper towers

Bethlehem is a Palestinian city about 45 minutes drive from Jerusalem. At least, that's about how long it should take. Like any place in the West Bank, the time to travel between almost any two given villages, towns or cities is entirely dependant on the Israeli soldiers manning the numerous checkpoints dotted around the whole area. The trip therefore, can and does regularly take hours longer, and sometimes is prevented altogether.

One day in November, while taking a break in Jerusalem from volunteer olive picking up in Nablus, a few of us decided to take a trip to Bethlehem. Sarah, my Aussie mate who had previously shown me around the Mount of Olives, had volunteered in the offices of a Palestinian peace group there for a few months, so knew the city pretty well and offered to show us around.

Some of the graffiti on Israel's Apartheid Wall around Bethlehem

Bethlhem agricultural land surrounded by the Wall

Bethlehem is a pretty graphic example of the ghettos the Israeli authorities are currently creating in the occupied Palestinian territories: latter-day bantustans. Now surrounded by an eight-meter-high concrete wall (dwarfing the former Berlin Wall), the victim of regular invasions (usually unreported in the Western media) by the Israeli military, Bethlehem is struggling for its very survival.

Dependant on tourism for much of its economy -- thanks to its Holy City status for Christians -- the city was really empty of them when we went. Numerous businesses are closed down. Shops full of tacky trinkets for tourists (that sell like hot cakes in Jerusalem) were empty.

This Bethlehem house is surrounded on two sides by the Wall, right in front of its windows. On the third site is an Israeli military base (not in the shot, and to the left)

No wonder, considering the whole city is like a prison. The only way through the Wall is though a series of cattle gates in an Israeli army compound that looks to me very much like the villain's den in James Bond films (it even has the aerial gangways to shoot from!).

Despite Israel's obstacles -- nay, even more because of them -- you should visit Bethlehem if you are in this part of the world. It's an undeniably historic city with numerous interesting sites. As well as the ones you'd expect, like the Church of the Nativity and the Shepherd's fields (actually in the nearby village of Beit Sahour), there are ones you might not, such as the Bethlehem Peace Center which houses art exhibitions, film screenings and an excellent English bookshop. The Palestinian people are as friendly and welcoming as ever. As ever, though, watch out for the overpriced souvenirs that tend to inhabit any such holy site around the world.