Peshawar, the city in Pakistan notorious for harboring Taliban terrorists, smells surprisingly, absolutely lovely. Once you leave the polluted streets, the lush gardens of jasmine overtake the senses.

I was in Peshawar to conduct interviews for a work project, and beyond the delicious scent of the streets, i was also surprised at how friendly the Pakistani's were. I was constantly invited for tea, meals, chats. The curiosity of who I was and what I was doing there was more than they could bare.

There were many stories that could be told about my trip but I would prefer to spin a yarn about vignettes of my memories. Peshawar is a complex place politically, and my experience doesn't necessarily reflect the tone of the city, but I feel it encapsulates the generosity and kindness of those Pakistani's who did cross my path.

HUSSEIN

He scurried up to us while we were walking in the bazaar and started speaking English. We told him we were looking for some proper Pakistani clothes and he insisted on taking us to his friend's local shop. He bartered for us, chose the right colors, and then took us back to his magazine's office where he showed us the best way to tie the shalwar kameez pants. Hussein is a journalist and a fixer international journalists who work in Pakistan. We sat in his office whilst he showed us countless photo albums of the trips he had taken.

PEARL CONTINENTAL HOTEL ROOFTOP

After having Hussein kit us out, we decided to take a small tuk tuk to the PC, as it is called in Peshawar. The Pearl Continental Hotel is THE luxury hotel in Peshawar. And compared to the refugee camps that exist close by, it really is quite swish.

The rooftop has an amazing view of the whole city, and with the waft of the BBQ and light breeze carrying the signature jasmine scents, we felt we had happened upon a small piece of Pakistani paradise.

After having our fill of delicious kebabs we meandered to the poolside where we were invited to share in a sheesha with some young men. They were originally from Afghanistan, but had grown up as refugees. They regularly came to the PC to partake in the pool-side atmosphere and relaxed environment. After spending a few hours chatting we soon discovered that one of the boys was Hekmatyar's ( a well known warlord from Afghanistan) grandson. The conversation quickly turned to politics and his views on the future of the country. It was an unexpected and once in a lifetime experience to speak to someone who was close to one of America's most wanted.

There are security risks in Peshawar, so we couldn't stay late at the PC solving the world's problems. But we made our way back to our guesthouse having made the most unexpected new friends, and an even more positive impression of a place that the world fears to be hostile and dangerous.