Our journey started in York where, with some excellent music lined up, we drove two hours to the little town of Muker, passing on our way the curious Buttertubs (pictured below). I was ‘reliably’ informed by my companion, Jon, that these were caused by glacial melt waters. However, a few hours into our hike, when every single geological query I’d made so far had been explained knowledgeably away with the same respectful nod to those ancient glacial melt waters, I began to doubt its authenticity.

The weather changes from dale to dale: Wensleydale was pretty grotty but Swaledale, at least to begin with, was balmy. Several view-breaks later (rests are for wimps), the clouds started to close in but the landscape was still a joy to behold.

We walked a total of 12 ½ miles, passing through what seemed like five different eco-systems. Well-tended farmland gave way to wilder and wilder terrains until we reached the cloud- immersed summit at Rogan’s Seat. It was at this point that Jon, compass and map in hand, decided to leave the well-trod path.

Beaten track thoroughly behind us we forged onwards through the lush heather. Rabbit holes and irrigation ditches lay concealed under the most innocent looking shrubs, but we made it to the next path without anything more serious than a few boot dunkings and wild grouse encounters.

Several miles later we arrived in Gunnerside and decided a quick pit-stop for a sneaky half was well deserved. The ale we decided to sample was Rucking Good. From there we walked an easy couple of miles along the Swale River. For any stone-skimming enthusiasts out there, I can but recommend this place as optimal!

Muddied and ravenous we rounded off our wonderful trip with a well-earned pie and a pint. Hurray for the Dales!

P.S. The night before our adventure in the Dales, I found a new thoroughly engaging past-time….hunting for silly (ie. innuendo laden) place names on maps. Here are a few of our fave's: Butt, Waingate Bottom, Swallow Hole, Black Pot Head, Virgin Moss, Disused Shaft, Cringly Bottom....