Often billed as a grittier, not-quite-as-pretty Barcelona, Madrid was a pleasant surprise. True, it doesn't have the water view and the atmosphere of chill that any great coastal city has, but Madrid is quite clean and beautiful, with myriad parks, gardens, museums, and grand old quarters to explore. And, yes, a fantastic nightlife. Even on a Monday.

A first stop should definitely be the Old Quarter. Grab tapas in any restaurant you pass whose menu you fancy, and then work off the sardines, tortilla espanol, and manchego cheese with an amble down Calle de las Huertas, where poetry is written in brass to decorate your footsteps.

Then, head to the modern art museum Reina Sofia, where glass elevators on the exterior of the building whisk you to the upper levels while offering you a majestic view of the city and all its palatial grandeur. In this museum, you'll find the epic Picasso piece Guernica depicting the horrors of a Nazi bombing of a Spanish city (Guernica) during the Spanish Civil War. It is an immense, dark, compelling portrayal of the ravages of war.

Grab an afternoon cappuccino and dessert at the Gran Hotel Canarias Brasserie, at Plaza Canovas del Castillo 4. We had a fantastic caramel mousse with banana/pistachio foam, and the menu has the best translation I've seen yet: "Apple cake with his own sofa cream." Yesssss.

In the dancing hours (around 2 or 3 am), find the Palacio de Gaviria at Calle de Arenal, 9 at the Opera stop. It is a 16th century palace converted into a dance club -- whichever inebriated official's decision THAT WAS, nice job! Because this is the most beautiful club I've ever danced in, although the music on a Monday night was hideous, so head there on more promising night closer to the weekend and you're sure to find a variety of rooms outfitted with DJs.

Oye!